Standard Carports also
suitable for walk way canopies and garden canopies.
Your first task is to decide where to install your
canopy taking care to ensure that there is sufficient space. This will
depend on the size of the canopy that you have purchased.
Unpack the box’s and check that you have the following
parts and fixing accessories: Glazing Panels, Eaves Beam, Posts, Wall
Plate, Flashing, 1 pair rafter bar closures, leg fixing shoes, screws,
end plate covers.
Remember when assembling your Canopy that all the
screws in the ‘Panel Fixing Pack’ have protective caps and these are
included with the screws. The cap is pressed onto the screw when the
screws have been fully tightened.
There are no fixings supplied for fixing the Wall
Plate & Wall Plate Flashing.
Installation Starts Here:
1) Drill holes in the wall plate 50mm in from each end
and in the centre of the vertical flange, then drill further holes at
equal centres (450mm intervals will be sufficient)
1a) You MUST ensure that you provide a secure
concrete fixing base for your bottom of leg shoe bracket to be fixed
to. The base must be at least 300mm in depth and at least 300mm
1b) If you are fixing a gutter kit ensure that your
roof panels do not overhang your eaves beam by more than 40mm. This
will allow rainwater to run into the centre of the gutter.
2) Face the wall where you intend to erect your
Canopy. At the right hand side of where it will be sited mark the wall
in preparation for the first steps towards fixing the wall plate.
Measure 2500mm (8’3) from the ground, offer up the wall plate, mark
the right hand hole and drill. The wall plate may be fixed at a higher
level, but we recommend a minimum of
2360mm (7’9) to the underside.
3) Fix the right hand side of the Wall plate to the
wall at the point previously marked using suitable fixings.
4) Raise the left hand side of the wall plate to a
horizontal position. Using a spirit level, ensure that the wall plate
is level, then mark and fix. Mark for the rest of the fixings.
Drill the wall and fully secure the wall plate using suitable fixings.
Next, put together the front support which when assembled will look
like goal posts. The cross bar is called
the eaves beam.
5) Drill the top two U shaped shoes to take 4 fixings
No. 14 x 19mm hex. Head self-tapping screws. One shoe will be fixed at
each end of the eaves beam.
6) Fix the U shaped shoes to the eaves beam 3mm from
the end (as shown in the illustration), drill and secure the shoes
using No. 14 x 19mm screws provided in the leg fixing pack.
7) Take one of the posts and fit it over the shoe.
Secure the leg to the shoe by using one M10 x 80mm long fixing stud
capped both ends. Carry out the same procedure with the other post
(or further posts if your canopy has an extension). Insert the square
end caps into both ends of the eaves beam.
8) Drop a plumb line down from the right hand side of
the wall plate and mark the wall and the floor with chalk. To
determine the horizontal distance from the wall to the outside face of
the eaves beam & support posts please use the following table. Use a
set square to achieve a right angle.
8a) Draw the outline of the post on the ground. Where
you have marked the post on the ground, drill and fix the U shaped
bottom leg show (that has two holes in the bottom flange) using the
two from anchors supplied (M10 x 80M long).
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THESE TWO
FIXINGS ARE SECURE IN A GOOD FOUNDATION AS SPECIFIED EARLIER.
8b) The next part of the installation may require
assistance. Raise the Eaves beam and posts to the vertical position,
place the right hand post over the shoe. Check that the measurement
back to the wall on the left post is the same as the right hand post
by measuring the diagonals. Again, fix the shoe into place. If there
are more than two posts carry out the same procedure for each post.
9) Place the posts over the shoes and using a spirit
level, check they are upright. Secure the legs to the shoes by using
the same fixings as you did at the top of the leg (M10 x 80mm long
stud) capped both ends. The posts will need to be supported until the
first glazing panel has been fixed.
Roof glazing panels positioning and fixing
NOTE: A gap of approx 12mm must be left between the back end of
the panel and the upright flange of the wall plate. The TOP SIDE if
the panel is identified by having a PRINTED or BLUE TINTED protective
film. The underside has a plain clear film.
10) Take the first glazing panel (leaving the
protective film in place) and
position the panel on the wall plate and eaves beam so it is flush
with the ends. Don’t forget to leave approx 12mm space as noted above.
Once the first panel is in place drill up through the wall plate and
into the side section of the glazing bar.
11) At this stage it is advisable to fix the UPVC
flashing to the structure,
this is positioned above the wall plate and is fixed to the wall and
on top of the glazing bars. Firstly, drill the flashing through the
plain top flange at 600mm centres. After positioning the first panel,
locate the UPVC flashing and fix it to the wall where it is above the
first panel. At this point remove the protective film from the panel
and then add and secure all other panels removing the protective film
as you go and fixing the flashing above each panel as it is erected.
NOTE: Ensure that the front edges of the panels are in line with each
Using a No.10 x 25mm self-tapping screw and cap
provided, secure the panel.
Repeat on the other side.
Secure the front end of the panel by drilling down
through the glazing bar
and eaves beam and fix with No. 10 x 83mm screw and cap provided.
Repeat on the other side.
12) On the underside of the glazing bar there is a centre guide.
This is a small indentation running down the centre of the complete
length of glazing bar. The interlocking glazing bars MUST be
fixed together. Mark the glazing bar on the centre guide 150mm from
each end and the at approx 900mm centres. Then, taking care, drill
through the bottom flange only of the glazing bar. Secure with the
screws and caps provided (No.10 x 19mm self tapping) in 2 panel fixing
13) To finish the roof of your canopy there are two closure pieces
which fit to the sides of the end panels, that shape of each one is
different, one is for the left side and one is for the right. These
are fitted in the same way as the panels were fixed together as
described in section 12, make sure to drill at the “centre guide”.
Note: These will overhang the end of the Wall Plate and Eaves Beam
to give a professional finish.
14) Finally, secure the “T” and “L” end plate covers to the front
end of the glazing bars using the screws and caps provided in the end
cap fixing pack.
15) Joining the 2 eaves beams together
We suggest that you place the small “U” shaped shoe centrally onto
the “U” shaped joining piece and mark it’s position in pencil. Next
step is to drill 4 holes through the small shoe as described in
previous step 5. Using the small shoe as a template place it back onto
the extended “U” section and mark the position of the holes. Remove
the small shoe and drill 4 holes through the base of the extended “U”
section. Now butt up together the two Eaves Beam and again using the
small shoe as a template mark and the drill the screw fixing points on
the two eaves beams.
You are now ready to join the small shoe, the internal extended
shoe and the eaves beam together.
However, to make this process a little easier we suggest that you
increase the diameter of the holes on the small show and Eaves Beam by
using a slightly larger drill bit. (e.g. 6mm)
16 To Install the PVCu Rainwater System
Starting at one end simply fix the gutter support brackets to the
face of the Eaves Beam at equal centres not exceeding 1 metre. Choose
one end to locate the stop end outlet and position it so as to allow
the rainwater down pipe to be aligned with the end support post.
Attach the two pipe brackets to the post ensuring one is located at
approximately 500mm down from the gutter with the other fixed around
the down pipe shoe.