Master Plastcs - Standard Car Ports - Installation Guide

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Installation Guide

Standard Carports also suitable for walk way canopies and garden canopies.

Your first task is to decide where to install your canopy taking care to ensure that there is sufficient space. This will depend on the size of the canopy that you have purchased.

Unpack the box’s and check that you have the following parts and fixing accessories: Glazing Panels, Eaves Beam, Posts, Wall Plate, Flashing, 1 pair rafter bar closures, leg fixing shoes, screws, end plate covers.

Remember when assembling your Canopy that all the screws in the ‘Panel Fixing Pack’ have protective caps and these are included with the screws. The cap is pressed onto the screw when the screws have been fully tightened.

Please Note:

There are no fixings supplied for fixing the Wall Plate & Wall Plate Flashing.

Installation Starts Here:

1) Drill holes in the wall plate 50mm in from each end and in the centre of the vertical flange, then drill further holes at equal centres (450mm intervals will be sufficient)

1a)  You MUST ensure  that you provide a secure concrete fixing base for your bottom of leg shoe bracket to be fixed to. The base must be at least 300mm in depth and at least 300mm square.

1b) If you are fixing a gutter kit ensure that your roof panels do not overhang your eaves beam by more than 40mm. This will allow rainwater to run into the centre of the gutter.

2) Face the wall where you intend to erect your Canopy. At the right hand side of where it will be sited mark the wall in preparation for the first steps towards fixing the wall plate.
Measure 2500mm (8’3) from the ground, offer up the wall plate, mark the right hand hole and drill. The wall plate may be fixed at a higher level, but we recommend a minimum of
2360mm (7’9) to the underside.

3) Fix the right hand side of the Wall plate to the wall at the point previously marked using suitable fixings.

4) Raise the left hand side of the wall plate to a horizontal position. Using a spirit level, ensure that the wall plate is level, then mark and fix. Mark for the rest of the fixings.
Drill the wall and fully secure the wall plate using suitable fixings. Next, put together the front support which when assembled will look like goal posts. The cross bar is called
the eaves beam.

5) Drill the top two U shaped shoes to take 4 fixings No. 14 x 19mm hex. Head self-tapping screws. One shoe will be fixed at each end of the eaves beam. 

6) Fix the U shaped shoes to the eaves beam 3mm from the end (as shown in the illustration), drill and secure the shoes using No. 14 x 19mm screws provided in the leg fixing pack.

7) Take one of the posts and fit it over the shoe. Secure the leg to the shoe by using one M10 x 80mm long fixing stud capped both ends. Carry out the same procedure with the other post
(or further posts if your canopy has an extension). Insert the square end caps into both ends of the eaves beam.

8) Drop a plumb line down from the right hand side of the wall plate and mark the wall and the floor with chalk. To determine the horizontal distance from the wall to the outside face of the eaves beam & support posts please use the following table. Use a set square to achieve a right angle.

PANEL LENGTH

ROOF PITCH

7.5° 10°
1.5M 1454mm 1448mm 1438mm
2.5M 2451mm 2439mm 2423mm
3.0M 2949mm 2935mm 2915mm

8a) Draw the outline of the post on the ground. Where you have marked the post on the ground, drill and fix the U shaped bottom leg show (that has two holes in the bottom flange) using the two from anchors supplied (M10 x 80M long).


IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THESE TWO FIXINGS ARE SECURE IN A GOOD FOUNDATION AS SPECIFIED EARLIER.

8b) The next part of the installation may require assistance. Raise the Eaves beam and posts to the vertical position, place the right hand post over the shoe. Check that the measurement back to the wall on the left post is the same as the right hand post by measuring the diagonals. Again, fix the shoe into place. If there are more than two posts carry out the same procedure for each post.

9) Place the posts over the shoes and using a spirit level, check they are upright. Secure the legs to the shoes by using the same fixings as you did at the top of the leg (M10 x 80mm long stud) capped both ends. The posts will need to be supported until the first glazing panel has been fixed.

Roof glazing panels positioning and fixing
NOTE: A gap of approx 12mm must be left between the back end of the panel and the upright flange of the wall plate. The TOP SIDE if the panel is identified by having a PRINTED or BLUE TINTED protective film. The underside has a plain clear film.

10) Take the first glazing panel (leaving the protective film in place) and
position the panel on the wall plate and eaves beam so it is flush with the ends. Don’t forget to leave approx 12mm space as noted above. Once the first panel is in place drill up through the wall plate and into the side section of the glazing bar.

11) At this stage it is advisable to fix the UPVC flashing to the structure,
this is positioned above the wall plate and is fixed to the wall and rests
on top of the glazing bars. Firstly, drill the flashing through the plain top flange at 600mm centres. After positioning the first panel, locate the UPVC flashing and fix it to the wall where it is above the first panel. At this point remove the protective film from the panel and then add and secure all other panels removing the protective film as you go and fixing the flashing above each panel as it is erected.
NOTE: Ensure that the front edges of the panels are in line with each other. 

Using a No.10 x 25mm self-tapping screw and cap provided, secure the panel.
Repeat on the other side.

Secure the front end of the panel by drilling down through the glazing bar
and eaves beam and fix with No. 10 x 83mm screw and cap provided.
Repeat on the other side.

12) On the underside of the glazing bar there is a centre guide. This is a small indentation running down the centre of the complete length of glazing bar. The interlocking glazing bars MUST be fixed together. Mark the glazing bar on the centre guide 150mm from each end and the at approx 900mm centres. Then, taking care, drill through the bottom flange only of the glazing bar. Secure with the screws and caps provided (No.10 x 19mm self tapping) in 2 panel fixing pack.

13) To finish the roof of your canopy there are two closure pieces which fit to the sides of the end panels, that shape of each one is different, one is for the left side and one is for the right. These are fitted in the same way as the panels were fixed together as described in section 12, make sure to drill at the “centre guide”.

Note: These will overhang the end of the Wall Plate and Eaves Beam to give a professional finish.

14) Finally, secure the “T” and “L” end plate covers to the front end of the glazing bars using the screws and caps provided in the end cap fixing pack.

15) Joining the 2 eaves beams together

We suggest that you place the small “U” shaped shoe centrally onto the “U” shaped joining piece and mark it’s position in pencil. Next step is to drill 4 holes through the small shoe as described in previous step 5. Using the small shoe as a template place it back onto the extended “U” section and mark the position of the holes. Remove the small shoe and drill 4 holes through the base of the extended “U” section. Now butt up together the two Eaves Beam and again using the small shoe as a template mark and the drill the screw fixing points on the two eaves beams.

You are now ready to join the small shoe, the internal extended shoe and the eaves beam together.

However, to make this process a little easier we suggest that you increase the diameter of the holes on the small show and Eaves Beam by using a slightly larger drill bit. (e.g. 6mm)

16 To Install the PVCu Rainwater System

Starting at one end simply fix the gutter support brackets to the face of the Eaves Beam at equal centres not exceeding 1 metre. Choose one end to locate the stop end outlet and position it so as to allow the rainwater down pipe to be aligned with the end support post. Attach the two pipe brackets to the post ensuring one is located at approximately 500mm down from the gutter with the other fixed around the down pipe shoe.

 
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