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Ensure
there is suitable support in the roof structure to support the
roof. The up stand kerb should be finished to provide a flashing
down on to the roof surface below. The roof opening should be
designed to suit the lantern you have ordered, or the roof lantern
should be made to measure.
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T he
cill from the roof lantern should bedded on a layer of neutral
cure silicone, which should be applied as a continuous bead around
the base of the roof lantern. This will stop
any leaks which might be caused by high winds on rainy days
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Drill
down through the cill with self tapping screws in to the beam
below at 400mm centre's (approx) Ensure the screws are long enough
to securely fix the cill into place
Hint:
Check
the diagonal sizes are equal before fixing the cill into place to
ensure it is square.
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Stand
the window frames on the cill then add the four corner posts screw
into to corner posts and down into the cill below.
Hint:
Screw
the corner posts first ensure the windows are in the correct place
before fixing down into the cill below.
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Add the ring beam screw up in to
the beam from the windows below and fix the corner brackets in to
place. Ensure the whole beam is securely fixed.
Hint:
Fix the four corner brackets first
then check the beam is sitting on top of the frames squarely
before fixing it to the frames.
On bigger roofs its some times
easier to fix the all the roof bars on to the ring beam then lift
the whole lot on to the windows for fixing.
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There
are two sets of brackets these will ensure the beam is fixed and
held tightly it binds the four roof lantern outer frames together.
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Add the straight beams
and the ridge section to the ridge beam bolt it to the ridge and
to the ring beam.
Hint:
Bolt the
tops of the bars to the ridge section then lift it on to the roof
lantern line up the bottom of the bars with the lower bolts and
tighten.
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The ridge beam has a d ring which
will fix to the hip bars as shown below.
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Fix
the hip bars on to the d ring and bolt into place
Hint:
Do not
over tighten the top end of the hip bars
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Fix the bottom of the hip bars as
shown
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For
security the window frames are supplied with an internal bead
glazing system you can fit the glass at this stage or leave it
until the end and then glaze it from the inside if access is
possible.
Hint:
Tap
the beads in to place with a white headed rubber hammer if
required. Start with the largest section of glass as the bigger
they are the easier they are.
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Put
the glass in to place ensuring a clear gap for expansion both
sides of the glass.
Hint:
Also
add the drip beads to to glass panels.
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Put the glass in to place ensuring
a clear gap for expansion both sides of the glass once you are
happy with the position you need to remove the yellow backing to
the glazing tape then drop the glass down on to the tape
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Check the bottom edge is correct
before removing the yellow tape. The glazing tape helps to reduce
noise and draft so its important not to forget to remove the
yellow top on the tape.
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Once
the roof lantern glass is in place and fixed with the glazing tape
add the top caps to the glazing bars push them down firmly until
they clip in to place.
Hint:
Make
sure bottom edge of the top cap is lined up before fixing do not
worry about the top as it will be covered buy the top ridge cap.
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Screw up in to the glazing bars
through the black section on the bar end cap. the black section of
the clip also holds the glass to prevent it from slipping
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After
the cap is screwed in to place lift the lower section up to cover
the end of the bar.
Repeat
the above process until all the glass is in place.
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The gutter brackets are a hidden
fix system which will clip lock on to the eaves beam as shown.
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After you have clipped the brackets
in to place the guttering is levered on from the front as shown
then push the back of the guttering up in to the gutter clip until
it locks into place.
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Once all the glass and glazing
beads are in place with the end caps screwed on clip the ridge
section on the add the cresting and finials to the top if
required.
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Add the lower caps to the |
